1883 Walking Tour by Clayton Packard

In the summer of 1883, Clayton Packard, the owner of the Snohomish Eye made a trip on foot up the river from Snohomish to Cherry Valley [just north of Duvall]. He wrote an account of this pilgrimage and it was given a prominent place in the Eye, covering several weeks. Perhaps no better picture of conditions can be gained than by following Mr. Packard on foot up the Snohomish and Snoqualmie valleys [via Park Place and the Tualco Valley]. There will come a time in the life of every man, wrote Mr. Packard, when he will drop the dull routine of everyday duties, and rest for a day or two; sometimes to spend a few pleasant weeks at the old home; sometimes to hunt and fish, and often—too often—to lie down for aye [sic] in the quiet city of the dead. Last Thursday our turn came to drop out of the traces and indulge in a change of work, if not in a few days of loafing. We determined to indulge our penchant for pedestrianizing; in other words, being neither rich, proud, nor handsome, we started to 'hoof it' up the Snohomish and Snoqualmie rivers as far as Cherry Valley to observe what improvements were going on and to gain any other information of interest to our readers.

We have often wondered why the peninsula formed by Pilchuck Creek and Snohomish River, which is covered with timber and underbrush, has not been cleared off. This brush extends to the eastern limits of the Sinclair addition and if cleared would add immensely to the appearance of that part of Snohomish. This tract is owned by J. H. Plaskett and the heirs of W. B. Sinclair, and contains about 100 acres of the very finest bottom land, that would be worth $10 per acre per annum if slashed and seeded down. The Park Place Road runs through this strip of land crossing Pilchuck near its mouth, where it is bridged. This bridge cost the county about $700, and consists of piles driven into the bottom on each side of the creek on which a span of about fifty feet rests. It is about ten feet above low water mark, and is approached at each end by aprons about thirty feet long. The bent, or cluster of piles, on the west end of the bridge had a strong list to starboard, which was caused by logs jamming there, and has been kept from tumbling over by an iron rod made fast at one end to a mammoth cottonwood tree, and to the piles at the other. However, a more ignoble fate than falling over will probably soon overtake it, for by an approaching change in the channel, it is now seriously threatened with being left on this side of the river, a thing neither of use nor ornament.

The first ranch after leaving the bridge (the old Knapp place) is owned by Hiram Thomas, and has a rather weed-overgrown and neglected appearance. This is a new place and has but four or five acres cleared and as Mr. Thomas is now in charge of the Robert Hilton ranch, he is not making improvements here. There is a small comfortable house on the southeast corner of the claim, on the road, and a small barn well filled with hay. This ranch contains but forty acres, but being within one mile of town, will be a valuable claim. The road following the river branches off here.

The next is the old Richards place, now owned by Joseph McNaught, of Seattle, at a point where the road intersects the Frenchie Slough [French Creek]. Here Stinson's flood dam is located. In the construction of this dam Mr. Stinson used a novel, improvised piledriver, the remarkable feature of which is a huge maple hammer, eight feet long and two and one-third feet in diameter. With this driver he drove two lines of 3 by 12 inch plank, tongued and grooved, into the banks and hollow of the slough. The space between was filled with sand. In the center of the dam is a frame, into which is set two tight fitting gates, which can be removed at high water to allow logs to run through into the river. This dam also affords the settlers on the opposite sides of the slough (I. Morris and H. Holverson) opportunity to construct a bridge, which they are about to do.

On the McNaught place there are thirty acres under cultivation and fourteen acres slashed. J. Cyphert, who is in charge, cut eighty tons of hay this summer. There is a comfortable little farmhouse, surrounded by a fine thrifty orchard, in which are several large cherry trees, probably the largest and certainly the oldest in the county. This claim is in the southeast quarter of section nineteen, the corner post of which falls in the slough. Every trace of this corner has disappeared, the four witness posts and eight witness trees having been destroyed. This missing corner is also the corner of the Buchanan ranch which has nearly thirty acres under cultivation and cuts about eighty tons of hay annually. The building bears the stamp of primitive architecture; there are some fine cherry trees, also a good orchard, and an abundance of small fruit. If these ranches were improved, it would open up this country so that Fiddler's Bluff, Forest Hill (Hoem's place), and the whole sweep of LaGrande marsh for six miles, would be in sight of town.

Across the slough are the ranches of Isaac Morris and Hans Holverson where improvements are being put. Their clearings having met those of M. Lord, pushing in from the river, so that the river's fringe of cottonwood can be seen from the Buchanan place. We traveled this road for the first time several years ago, when from here on, it was almost impossible to crawl through a little traveled trail, where we now had a fine wagon road.

Crossing the bridge, we leave the Buchanan ranch behind and enter the John Swett claim. The first object that attracted our attention, after stepping off the bridge was a new building, whose white walls in strong contrast with the dark green background, stood out in bold relief, challenging the notice of all passers-by. This was the new schoolhouse belonging to School District No. 12. Although not quite finished, it would be a credit to many older districts. It is 20 by 30 with fourteen foot posts, is well lighted, and when finished will be one of the pleasantest little schoolrooms in the county. It is located on the county road on an acre of ground one-half of which was donated by Mrs. Mary L. Evans, from the Buchanan claim, and the other half by John H. Swett. This district, organized quite recently, owes its new schoolhouse, as well as its very existence, to the energy and push of one of its directors, Charles Short, and H. W. Light, its clerk, backed by a community of wide-awake citizens. Passing the schoolhouse a few rods, the road branches off, which, affording H. W. Light an outlet, intersects the river at George Saunders' place. Some thirty rods distance is Fred Cedergren's old clearing and a few rods further on brings one to LaGrande Marsh, on the south side of which, opposite the point where the road intersects it, is Forest Hill, the residence of Elling Hoem, whose ranch, including about ninety acres of marsh, lies on the south side of the road. This marsh, though called LaGrande Marsh, is but a branch of LaGrande Marsh proper, which is nearly six miles in length and averages one and one-half miles in breadth. A part of this marsh was settled by some Frenchmen, Peter Tessier, Peter Bosseau and Alex, last name unknown, who tried to get rid of their neighbors by putting strychnine in the spring. The drug being slightly soluble did not fulfill their expectations. These would-be murderers now conspired against each other, and Bosseau placed strychnine in the sugar bowl in Alex's cupboard. Alex invited a friend into the back of his shop to have a social glass, to improve which, he introduced sugar (and strychnine) into the compound. Bosseau, being present, was for once not inclined to be ternpted. Alex then sat down to dine, and used more of this doctored sugar in his coffee, but soon felt the effects of the poison and called for help. Doctor Folsom was summoned, and pronounced it a case of poison; whereupon, M. Edgar declared that he, too, had taken a dose. Ignorance had again baffled the would-be murderer's design for the strychnine, for the most part remained undissolved in the bottom of the cups. These cups are still in the possession of the sheriff. Both men recovered, Peter Tessier, who inspired the deed, escaped, while Bosseau, his tool, was convicted and sent to the state's prison at Seatco. Thus four lives were attempted to secure the beautiful marsh which now belongs to Elling Hoem and Fred Cedergren. Elling Hoem's house on the south side of the road, is built of nicely hewn logs; two stories high, and well proportioned. It is well finished inside and presents a picture of home comfort. It is surrounded by a clearing of two acres which, though belonging to the once denounced highland, furnishes a productive garden. Fifteen rods east is the residence of Hogan Frederickson, father-in-law to Mr. Hoem, which relationship he also bears to Fred Cedergren, whose place is just across the road. Frederickson's house is built of sawed lumber, sided with rustic, and of recent construction. Frederickson has quite a slashing on his claim, which is composed entirely of high land. Opposite Hoem's house is the new home of J. A. C. Cedergren, which, when finished, will be one of the finest farm houses in the county. It is literally a 'House of Seven Gables', it having just that number of peaks. He has been his own architect and his own builder.

Hoem has forty-six acres of marsh land slashed and burned and the larger portion under cultivation; Fred Cedergren has twenty-five acres slashed and burned. The opening is about one mile long and one-half mile wide and has a decidedly farm-like appearance. The old road formerly turned abruptly south after passing Hoem's place, making a gigantic ox-bow in order to cross two bad swales, where an animal might easily mire. This line of beauty was summarily nipped off by W. T. Brown, who surveyed the road in 1881 and substituted a straight line, running almost due east, and intersecting the old road near Kellogg's clearing, now owned by W. E. Hawkins. About the fourth of a mile north and east of Forest Hill are the claims of Hans Hanson and Hans B. Hanson.

On emerging from the woods we came into the Hawkins clearing. Hawkins has a fine story-and-a-half house and a commodious barn under construction. He has twenty acres under cultivation and twenty more slashed and burned. He cut this season fifteen tons of hay, beside raising considerable garden produce. He has four head of cattle, and a team of horses. Across the road, J. E. Ladebouche has a highland claim which promises to be valuable. On this place we notice a fine lot of Ship-knees, about 250, belonging to Hawkins and Ladebouche, and which at an average price, will bring about $800. Following the road along the edge of the marsh about three-fourths of a mile, we arrive at Charles Cedergren's place. He has two houses on his claims and quite a large slashing. Since proving up on these tracts, he has been home to Norway on a visit, returning about one year ago with several young ladies, one of whom now is Mrs. Cedergren, and another Mrs. Peterson. A mile further on are the clearings of G. T. Sorenson, J. Roberts, S. A. Woods, and J. L. Saterlee. Sorenson's claim is one mile long and one-fourth wide, and includes about seventy-five acres of fine marsh land. He has about five acres slashed on the highland. This marsh land must be drained, not by individual effort, but by all land owners combining. The marsh contains about 3,600 acres and the work would be no greater than that now about completed on the marsh south of Snohomish. James B. Roberts has a new claim and has built himself a comfortable house, around which, with fire and ax, he is rapidly hewing out a farm. S. A. Woods has one acre under cultivation, a small temporary house and about ten acres slashed and burned. J. L. Saterlee is a newcomer, who has built himself a little home, and is rapidly clearing the land. A few rods brings us to the top of the rise where Park Place begins to show through the trees.

This road, now a credit to the county, owes its condition, not to the county, though several appropriations have been made to assist the work, but to the energy and push of settlers who live outside the district to which the road belongs, and who donated many days' work to complete it. When the project was pushed through, there was but one resident settler on the road, and he lived at the north end, four miles from Park Place. When the matter was agitated, the settlers in the forks[Tualco Valley], viz.: Johnson, Foye, Harriman, Smallman, Phelps and others came forward with full force and with a spirit worthy of old pioneers, pushing the matter. On the road are several substantial bridges, mostly built by volunteer work; in fact, a large share of the work is owing to the public spirit of the settlers. S. A. Woods was the organizer of the project.

Park Place, though the name might indicate it, is not a great town but rather a 'X Roads.' Here, not long ago, was the postoffice kept by H. McClurg who has here a valuable claim. Within a short radius are the places of Allan McDougal, rapidly coming to the front as one of the fine Skykomish farms; that of George Kelsey and that of George Alien on the Marsh road. Across the river is the claim of William Pattison. Schoolhouse No. 2 is located at Park Place and the settlement has a townlike appearance. Following Snoqualmie branch of the road, about sixty rods [approximately 1,000 feet] below Park Place, we arrived at Pattison's ferry and found Messrs. Bonsell blasting out a huge rock, which in high water formed a large eddy, interfering with the landing of the ferry. The rock was the size of an ordinary one-story house, and about 1,000 tons of it had to be moved. Pattison began the construction of his ferry about two years ago and it was first operated July 4, 1882. It is what is known as a flying ferry, but is built on a primitive plan, so far as the boat is concerned, which consists of two mammoth canoes staid together with crossties, on which a floor is laid. The rope which carries the boat back and forth is of wire, two and one-half inches in circumference, and 525 feet long, with an addition of 250 feet of iron rod for shorefasts. He expects to have a new and larger boat by next fall. The people appreciate the advantages of the ferry but say they cannot afford to pay the rates allowed by the county commission which are $1.50 for bringing their teams to the city and returning. There is talk of an opposition ferry three-quarters of a mile below.

After crossing at the ferry one comes to the Forks, one of the finest portions of our county, containing over 600 acres of splendid marsh and about 5,500 acres of the very finest river bottom land. Nearly 500 acres have been broken and cultivated and 200 acres more slashed and burned. There are eighteen settlers on this tract, namely: C. Harriman, A. Johnson, A. W. Foye, Frank Phelps, Robert Smallman, William Baldwin, William and Rufus Pattison, James Evans, Captain Osborn, Granis Austin, F. Udell, F. Detering, James Clark, M. C. Fitzmaurice, J. D. Barnes, James Burton, Isaac Peer, and George Frazier.

The Harriman and Johnson ranches are the oldest in the Forks. Harriman has a fine farm, large, comfortable dwelling house, two large well-built barns, granary, outbuildings, etc. He has ninety acres fenced and under cultivation, the greater portion of which is in grass. He cut sixty-five tons of hay this season, being but a two-thirds crop, owing to late pasturage, and the unusual dry season. He has twelve acres in grain, and three in potatoes. His stock consists of five head of horses, fourteen head of cattle, and thirty sheep. His machinery consists of plows, horserakes, mower, hayforks, good wagon, etc., and in company with his neighbor Johnson, a new horsepower thresher. The schoolhouse is located on his ranch and is a credit to district No. 7. Mr. Harriman was a member of the Territorial Legislature in 1875. Lying north is the Johnson ranch with a comfortable frame dwelling, painted white, two large barns, and other outbuildings, together with the best and latest machinery. He has sixty acres under cultivation and fifteen acres slashed and burned. His stock consists of 100 head of sheep, twenty-five head of neat cattle, and two horses.

The next place belongs to A. W. Foye. He has fifty acres under cultivation sixty acres slashed, burned, and in grass, as sheep pasture. More is being slashed, and by 1884, he will be entitled to the credit of being the first man in the county to completely clear 160 acres of vine maple bottom. Mr. Foye has a comfortable house. The ranch cut ninety tons of hay last summer, raised two acres of potatoes, and one of turnips, besides furnishing pasturage for thirty-two head of cattle, including nine milch [milk] cows, 135 head of sheep, and four head of horses. The implements consist of plows, rakes, mower, and a good wagon. He has a fine young orchard of 100 trees. The sale of products for 1883 up to the last of August amounted to $1,200. Frank Phelps has a bonanza in his ranch for which he paid $500 several years ago and for which he could readily get $5,000 without the added improvements. He has sixty-five acres under cultivation, and twenty acres slashed and burned, thirty-seven head of cattle, four horses, and forty-six sheep. The ranch cut seventy tons of hay which will bring $16 per ton on the river bank, beside four acres in oats, two in potatoes, and one in turnips. Mr. Phelps has spent much for farm machinery this season. There is a thrifty young orchard, well laden with fruit. Robert Smallman's place is just across the field. He had the misfortune nine years ago, to lose one of his legs, but he has stuck to the ship until she not only floats, but has brought him into an independence. He has sixty acres under cultivation, and five acres slashed. The house, though not built after modern designs, presents a picture of comfort. It is sufficiently roomy, and in the sitting room an old fashioned fireplace—not one of those modern toys, but one into whose wide walls is rolled a yule log, long and thick, that lasts from the rising of the sun until the going down thereof. One that, roaring and snapping, sends out comfort and good cheer, with every changing ray. This ranch beside furnishing pasturage for 330 sheep, twenty-five head of cattle, and two horses, cut fifty tons of hay this season. The next ranch, that of James Clark, has twenty acres under cultivation from which he cut twenty tons of hay, besides raising three acres of grain and two of potatoes, and pasturing twenty-eight head of sheep, eleven head of cattle, and one horse. Isaac Peer has a fine marsh claim on the Snoqualmie and is adjoined by J. D. Barnes on the west. M. C. Fitzmaurice has one of the finest claims, with thirty acres cleared, a good barn and a comfortable house.

Proceeding from the Fitzmaurice ranch, a beautiful little waterfall, known as the Big Gulch Falls, leaps over a precipice of forty feet, about half way on the road to Cherry Valley. The first ranch after striking the river is that of the Frazier boys, now managed by James Frazier. There forty acres under cultivation and a fine orchard surrounds the house which, though built of split cedar boards (for in the days of its erection sawed lumber was scarce and impossible to freight so far up the river) is quite as cozy and comfortable as any. The livestock consists of fifteen head of cattle, including a fine yoke of work cattle, and fifteen head of sheep, and there is a new barn built last summer. Up the river is the ranch of Lucius Day. He has twenty acres under cultivation from which he cut eighteen tons of hay besides pasturing twenty-two head of sheep, and eleven head of cattle. There is a fine young orchard. From the bluffs northeast of the Frazier place can be seen the Cranberry Marsh about two miles wide and containing over 4,000 acres. This marsh, almost all of which was vacant a year ago, has been entirely appropriated during the past summer, and will probably fall into the hands of two or three parties in Seattle who promise to bring it under cultivation by a thorough system of ditching. The northwest extremity of this marsh is at H. Spurell's, only twelve miles from Snohomish by the Mukilteo and Snoqualmie River Road.

Returning, we crossed the river at A. Johnson's place and landed at Martin Peterson's, on the Snohomish City side of the Skykomish. He purchased this ranch from Charles Taylor in 1881, and has a comfortable dwelling, new barn, ten acres cleared, twelve head of cattle, and a horse. Charles Taylor's ranch is three-fourths of a mile below the ferry. This is a fine farm with forty-three acres under cultivation, which lies on a bench about four feet higher than the average river bottom land and which never overflows. On a point of high land is the comfortable dwelling, in front of which is a fine orchard. This farm, besides four acres of wheat, and the necessary pasturage for seventy-seven head of stock, cut eighty tons of hay this season. There are three good barns and the farm machinery consists of plows and harrows, a wagon, horserake, and mower.

--from the History of Snohomish County, Washington, edited by W. M. Whitfield, 1926, pages 644-50.